Gratteri has dedicated the past three decades of his life to fighting a Calabria-based organization known as the ’Ndrangheta-the richest, most powerful, and most secretive criminal group in Italy today. I was there one day last year to meet Nicola Gratteri, the chief prosecutor for nearby Catanzaro, a small city high in the hills of central Calabria. Beyond it rises an unfinished concrete tower, open to the elements and covered on one side by an advertisement for amaro. The cement facade is punctuated by rows of round windows that resemble oversize portholes. T he airport at Lamezia Terme, Calabria, in the toe of Italy’s boot, was built in the 1970s and has not aged well.
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